[Back to main page] FRA KAPP A CABO
North Cape to Gibraltar by bike, summer '98

Under high pressure

While the rest of Europe was having the standard average weather, with in the south of Norway even the forecasts for "storm and rain", we had the luck of a local mini heat-wave caused by an area of high barometer readings and a wind coming from the east. The temperatures were not only high while we were doing ascend after ascend, but also remained high during the night. It was surprising that the sun at 2 in the morning is not only still giving light, but also still provides a lot of warmth.

Badderfjorden
Badder-
fjorden
always the E6
The E6

Under a burning sun, we passed fjord after fjord in Finnmark and Troms. We were completely suntanned within a few days, as far as that is of course possible with the traditional cyclers outfit. It's more a brown white stripe effect. The cycling only became heavy when moving from one fjord to the other. Then, suddenly the mountains that first only made the most beautiful sights, were also steep and high. Altitudes here range from 800 to 1200 meters.

Along the fjords there are the most picturesque small houses and barns. All in the typical local red-brown, yellow or green colors. Very interesting are the houses with a ramp to the upper floor. There, under the roof, the house serves as barn, while the downstairs area is for domestic use.

While cycling along the fjords, the mountains still contain a lot of white glistering snow. Which is also melting fast and making the rivers fast flowing and cold. The sights are spectacular and impressive, but one wonders how this looks like in the middle of winter when the sun disappears for a couple of months.

Fjords in Finnmark
fjords in Finnmark
.
Bay in Finnmark

Camping is very easy here. Tents are quite in the minority compared to campers and cabins, but in general the facilities are very good. The average camping has good kitchen facilities, always toilet paper provided and often washing plus drying machines to name a few. But more important, they are located at nice spots with plenty of nature around you.

The only nuisance of course form the mosquitoes. In contrast to the midgets in Scotland or the sandflies in New Zealand here you have the larger (and slower) variant. Easy to catch, but there are so many of them. And they are able to penetrate nearly all your clothing. Luckily our tent is 100% mosquito proof. So, during the night, after a small battlefield, we sleep quietly.

Lunch along the road
lunch along the road
beer at end of the day
Beer at end of the day

Our biggest problem lies with food and drink. Both are very expensive, but the latter is also very difficult to get at. The result is cycling the whole day with too much "spare food and beer" because you don't know when the next village will come where you can buy it. This makes the cycling heavier, which increases the need for a beer after cycling, which makes you put more beers in your shopping cart, which makes ..... you get the picture? Well, more on this topic later.

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